The theme of the day

Long-time readers may remember our last trip to Acadia, seven years ago.  The short version is that it poured rain the whole time, eventually flooding our tent, soaking all our possessions, and sending us packing a few days earlier than originally planned.  So we’ve been delighted that the weather seems to be repaying its debt this time around — with abundant sunshine, warm but not humid days, and cool, pleasant evenings.  Even the predicted hurricane only caused a bit of rain after dark.

On the other hand, not everything has gone so smoothly.  First there was yesterday’s heartbreaking popover situation.  Today we got hit by another COVID impact — lack of parking.  (I should pause here to say how impressively the park, as well as the town

When the stairs finally ended, the steeply sloping rock face was not any better.

of Bar Harbor/state of Maine, are dealing with the COVID situation.  Park buildings like the visitor center are closed, but rangers are available under outdoor tents to provide advice and answer questions.  Masks are mandatory and every business has a “No Mask, No Service” sign as well as a maximum occupancy limit — and people are more or less compliant.  So despite the town and park being pretty

crowded, and with people from all over the place, rates are still among the lowest in the country.  Businesses are able to operate and tourists are able to shop and eat out.  Quite a contrast with other vacation destinations that refused to enact any measures and then become hot spots.)

Anyway, the usual shuttlebus isn’t running this year, so everyone has to drive into the park.  It was our bad luck that the hike we’d planned — much talked-up by the friendly ranger we’d met on the way in, who generated a lot of excitement with talk of slot canyons and boulders and a long stretch of rock that you could ride down like a slide — started near the Jordan Pond House,  whose popularity once more cropped up to foil us.  (It was also unfortunate that we’re traveling with (almost) three teenagers, and so our arrival at the park wasn’t what you’d call early in the morning.)  After a frustrating hour driving around attempting to find somewhere to park, including following random people who we felt looked as though they might be returning to their cars, we had to admit defeat.

Plan B consisted of pulling into the next parking lot we came across, in the Sieur de Monts area of the park, which we hadn’t explored before.  Luckily there was a ranger on-site to advise us, and she was able to recommend a loop trail to the top of nearby Dorr Mountain.

The trail began with a long set of stone steps heading quickly up the mountain.  Then we came to the top and turned the corner, and there were more steps.  And more steps.  Basically, the entire Emery Path consisted of steps running up the side of the mountain.  We were in awe of the effort it must have taken to construct the trail (since we were finding it quite taxing just climbing it).  It was another one of those magical Acadia trails that provide views the whole way, as we were hugging the outside of the mountain throughout.  Zoe and I both found it oddly reminiscent of the hike to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu, though the environments were certainly very different.

As we continued around the loop we were impressed with the variety of terrains — stone steps, open rock faces, birch groves, narrow paths winding through forests of small evergreens, stunted by the exposure.  After our descent we followed a long, flat trail along a marsh, with green and orange grasses glowing against the deep blue water.  It was hard to imagine that the hike we’d missed could have been much better.

After our hard work on the hike, the girls were keen on another visit to the beach that they’d loved so much a couple of days ago — but alas, this too was a bit disappointing, with small waves, more seaweed, and even a jellyfish.  Still, you can’t beat the views.

We got back to our place in time for an evening stroll into town for beers at the local microbrewery (Bob and I) and an expedition for smoothies and salt-water taffy (girls).  Everyone will certainly sleep well tonight.

The girls stopped to say hello to us at the microbrewery on their way back from town. One of them is distracted by her phone — and it’s not even the one you’d think!