Finding our way — and cheese, eventually

We are still figuring out Paris, as evidenced by our late-afternoon hunt for cheese and bread. “It’s Paris,” Lanie said. “There should be cheese shops all over the place.”

The noontime sun assaults our recently-sleeping eyes.

Not exactly. And the fromagerie we did find was closed. Cheese buying is an early-afternoon activity for Parisians, apparently. We finally found some in a small market, along with some fruit. The bread was found at what may have been an after-hours speak-easy boulangerie. The first few of those we found were closed, too.

Of course, these closures may be because today is national hangover day in France. There was a lot of partying last night involved with the World Cup victory. People who weren’t drinking all night were probably up early cleaning the mess. The streets were filled with bottles and cans (and Frenchmen) when we went to bed last night and when we hit the streets today they were clean.

A pasta cocktail

We gave them plenty of time to do the job, as our first order of the day was our noon time meal at the corner Italian restaurant. Here we learned that “cocktail” when applied to a pasta dish means a mix of different pastas; pizzas in France seem to be slice-your-own; and not all French cheeses are acceptable to all Pavlik children. We also learned that we could survive quite well with a waitperson who does not speak English.

Tastes like Paisano, when the bottle is still fresh

It was strange, because it was kind of like breakfast for us, but as it was lunch for everyone else, Jen and I availed ourselved to our first wine of the trip. It was Italian wine. Cheap Italian wine. It reminded us of home.

Fueled up, we headed down Rue Descartes to the Isle de la Cite and the Notre-Dame Cathedral. Here we found that everyone else who wanted to visit the cathedral had gotten up before us and was already standing in line. The Crypte Archeolgique is in the same square, and it had no line at all. But that’s becuase it’s closed Mondays.

One-third of the world’s stained glass reserves are in this chapel, it seems.

We rallied, really not missing many beats at all, and hit two museums before most of the people in line got into the cathedral. These museums were the Sainte Chapelle, with its vertical acres of marvelous stained glass, and the Conciergerie, which is the prison where they kept Marie Antionette and many other political prisoners.

Cool indoor waterfall and flume

But it was most noteworthy to us because they have a flume of Seine water flowing through the basement. It comes out as a waterfall over the front door. We were all impressed with that.

Syrop, streetside

So, we’re getting the hang of Paris. We stopped to get a round of syrops during our next walking leg. We found our way to the Centre Pompidou, which, by the way, is closed on TUESDAY, but open on Monday.

At the Pompidou, on the express escalator to modern art

We were really feeling good, especially with all that modern art all over the place. We bought a couple of crepes. We walked back across the Isle to see maybe if the line at Notre-Dame had gone down (it had, substantially, since the Cathedral had closed 45 minutes earlier).

We don’t even know what this building is. Does anyone have an idea?

We were strafed by the French Blue Angels flying very close overhead and dropping red, white and blue smoke above us and, probably, the parade celebrating Les Bleus in some other part of the city.

All that was left was to pick up some bread, cheese and tomatoes for our traditional “Roman Dinner” that we have when we’re in a cool foreign city and not eating in a restaurant. Easy, right?

Bread and cheese procured, avec apples and tomatoes.

Hopefully, I’m not coming off as complaining.  As a family we are a pretty good problem-solving unit, and we tend to enjoy trying to find the puzzle pieces and put them together.  The girls have been exremely good troopers so far in this respect.   Also it should be said that most problems are already solved by the time we get somewhere.  Jen has laid out a nice trip for us, including very cool accommodations very near a small square ringed with cafes. We had it together enough tonight after sending the kids to bed that we slipped out for a beer each and a bit of Parisian evening atmosphere.

Poring over the bier menu on the square

I’m sure we’ll have the rest of Paris all figured out tomorrow.

One thought on “Finding our way — and cheese, eventually

  1. Anonymous

    Just saw a shot of Paris celebrating their World Cup win. Looked like millions of people! Love sing your pictures.

    Reply

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